Bottling at Domaine Ribiera

A picture tells a thousand words, but in the case of bottling wine just a few words make it seem simple. Move the wine from the vat into a bottle, cork, add a capsule plus label and box ready for shipment. The challenge is to make this scale to over 10,000 bottles and complete the task in a couple of days.

The approach at Domaine Ribiera (Aspiran in the Pezenas terroir) is to use a compact mobile bottling unit. The advantages include the ability to set it up in a confined space, minimal wastage of wine in connecting pipes and a reasonable bottling rate; I timed over 20 a minute. A big disadvantage is that at least 7 people need to coordinate and work flat out.

The equipment is aligned like lego but requires manual intervention at every stage. One person feeds bottles into the amazing kit that precisely fills each bottle and rams in the corks (at the back of the picture above). The bottles are spewed onto a carousel where the loose capsules are placed over the neck by a number 2. The 3rd person moves these bottles onto a line that seals the capsule over the cork and rolls on the label (left of the top picture and below). The 4th person will fold cardboard into boxes so the 5th can pack cases of 6 bottles. A neat device then tapes each box up so that number 6 can pile them onto a palate (picture below). Those left over need to manage the whole operation, perform quality control, replace rolls of labels and tape, ensure a supply of new bottles, remove rubbish, manoeuvre palates and make coffee.

David Caer (Clos Mathelisse) on box duty

The wine by the way is 2011 Causse Toujours 80% Grenache 20% Syrah. I'll be sampling some after giving it a chance to settle down.

Rising Stars London Tasting

I was pleased, especially given I'm an amateur but obviously with a love of the region's wines, to be asked to nominate growers for this event and thereby join some illustrious company. The criteria was reasonably new and exciting ventures not available in the UK. All the contributions would be ranked to create an invite list and several of my nominations were exhibited. Some were present I would have nominated, but perceived them as risen stars or as having importers - a fickle thing as sadly many stockists are unable or unwilling to import regularly, or are simply not doing enough in the eyes of their suppliers.

There were 15 wineries along with samples from growers unable to travel to London. With hindsight, I would have tasted a broader range, but after 40 plus samples it becomes counter productive for my palate.

Gavin Crisfield La Traversée (Terrasses du Larzac) was my wine of the tasting - the 2009 is a blend of Syrah, Grenache, Carignan and Cinsault with heaps of intertwining layers of summer fruits, herbal perfumes and balancing savoury tannins. The cask sample of 2010 suggested it will be equally exciting. Until recently Gavin was the winemaker at La Sauvageonne and told me he had been eyeing up small well tended vineyards in the vicinity of nearby St Privat for years. Tucked under the cliffs of the Larzac plateau this is the area where Olivier Jullien has his sandstone Carlan vineyard. Also at the tasting, and almost a junior version of La Traversée, was the 2010 Les Vignes Oubliées. This is a venture between Jean-Baptiste Granier and Olivier Jullien to rescue abandoned vineyards in the same area. I've enjoyed previous vintages and, at roughly half the [euro retail] price of La Traversée and Carlan, excellent value.

Domaine Les Aurelles is very much an established star - I purchased a selection soon after the millennium and recall tasting older wines from the mid-1990s. What I admire about the reds is the absence of oak for wines equipped for ageing. I also admire the extensive us of Carignan. The simple, light and clean 2008 Déella and brambly meatier 2007 Solen have 60% along with Grenache. The white 2007 Aurel is a masterclass in what can be done with the tricky Roussane - youthful and understated. While memories plays tricks, I found these wines had a better balanced ripeness than older vintages.

I first tasted Domaine Turner Pageot's wines the previous July. Back then what took me by surprise, shocked even, were the whites. Le Blanc (2010?) is 80% Roussanne and 20% Marsanne, but for me the grapes are not the point here, as Emmanuel explained it's a wine with texture. I found concentration without being hard work to drink. 2011 La Rupture (early bottling sample) is Sauvignon Blanc for what it's worth; but with oak, indigenous yeasts and (again Emmanual explained) fermentation at a relatively warm 28 deg. it becomes something else. My previous description of coriander seeds and preserved lemon will have to do, and again there is a mystical texture. I can see these whites becoming an addiction. The reds were more conventional as it were. Grenache dominated 2010 Le Rouge showed great balance with supple tannins and is already delicious. Perhaps the nearest, in style and geography, to a Faugères at the tasting.

Domaine Sainte Cécile du Parc really does fit the term rising. Just north of Pezenas the estate was acquired in 2005 and has undergone massive replanting and winery construction. 2010 Notes Pures is Sauvignon Blanc in the freshest of styles - gooseberry and pineapple, an uncomplicated aperitif style. The reds on show were Syrah dominated. 2009 Notes d'Orphée is the unoaked version, attractive easy drinking with lovely fruit and is my pick.

Mas d'Amile make one wine, a stunning pure expressive of fresh Carignan. I've enthused about in the past here - it deserves to be imported. A favourite Domaine Jones was there as well - see my Outsiders posts.

Over in Roussillon Domaine Modat has vineyards on a 300m plateau rising to 500m. The white 2010 De ci de la (half Grenache Gris with Grenache Blanc and Macabeu) was rich, nutty, stony with lemon rind - definitely a wine I'll keep an eye out for. The reds were equally well made, although my palate fatigue was becoming advanced.

Judging from the simplistic price guide in the well presented catalogue, Mas de Cynanque in Saint Chinion could be offering some of the best value at the lower end of the price scale. 2009 Fleur rouge is Carignan dominated with a lovely drinkable cherry character. 2009 Plein grès (Syrah, Carignan and Mourvèdre) had interesting liquorice and mint flavours while 2010 Amicytia (mainly Grenache) was the most complex with layers of coffee, caramel and balanced fruit.

Also with wines in the value category is Chateau d'Or et de Gueules in the east of the region south of Nîmes - I liked the supple tannins and cassis with pepper of their 2009 Les Cimels (Syrah, Carignan and 20% Grenache). 20,000 bottles are listed as being available, enough I would have thought for the greediest nationwide retailer.

My overall impressions? Frankly I would enjoy drinking all the wines I tasted - the standard and consistency was high. The Languedoc factor of reds with rich ripe fruit but not shying away from a bit of tannin was on show in spades while the whites were as diverse as the region.

Southern Rhone, Languedoc and Image

I would strongly recommend the Charlemagne wine club to any wine lover within striking distance of Ealing in West London. Still going strong after 30 years plus they get it right. Plenty of informed speakers, diverse wines, sit down tasting, excellent value and a good balance between giving the wines attention and a social event. They meet the 3rd Monday of most months - see their website for details.

Charlemagne's March evening covered the Southern Rhône and Châteauneuf-du-Pape star Vieux Télégraphe. The Southern Rhône and Languedoc-Roussillon have much in common with a similar Mediterranean climate and shared grape varieties. Vinously, the most significant difference is the greater use of Grenache in the reds at the expense of Carignan, and that's about it.

From a UK consumer perspective the Southern Rhône is way ahead. Back in the 1980s Côtes du Rhône managed to elevate itself above country wine status, a polite term for holiday plonk, to be a recognisable and reliable marque and join the likes of generic Bordeaux and Burgundy. The area single handedly represented the south of France on many wine lists and retail shelves and continues to be top dog today. Dine in an ordinary restaurant in France outside a wine area and more often than not Southern Rhône is the closest you'll get to the Med. on the wine list.

Fine. But what's extraordinary and harder to explain is how decades ago Châteauneuf-du-Pape became, and continues to be, an icon commune. Shrewd marketing by the town and the reference to papal connections moulded on the neck of every bottle would have been key factors. Perhaps being located on the main north-south communication artery is another. For many everyday wine consumers it's up there with the likes of Chablis and Sancerre as a French label to pay a premium for - an affordable luxury or gift to impress.

Chateauneuf is home to a handful of estates recognised by connoisseurs and, no doubt fuelled by Parkerisation, even wine investors. Vieux Télégraphe is one of these as the four vintages back to 2001 at the tasting illustrated. At around £50 a bottle it may seem modest value when compared to peers in the Languedoc, but I would argue it represents a bargain when compared to Chateauneuf's marketed to everyday consumers. All the big UK supermarkets list examples starting at £15 and up. One was sampled at the tasting and young (2010), sweet and dull sums it up. By contrast, the 1/2 million bottle production 2007 Guigal Côtes du Rhône at half the price was a decent drink, even when revisiting it after the might of Vieux Télégraphe.

Back in the Languedoc no area has anything like the perceived cachet of Châteauneuf and I hope never will. While it may generate better prices for good producers, too much mediocrity will be rewarded as is the case in the aforementioned famous appellations. Côtes du Rhône is another matter and the world perceiving, say, Coteaux du Languedoc as a desirable peer would be just recognition.

Party Time with Domaine Sainte Rose

I first purchased Domaine Sainte Rose on a visit to the property back in 2003 and still have a bottle of La Garrigue from Charles and Ruth Simpson's first vintage 2002. The wines aren't available in France, being destined to northern climes. In the UK (check out Majestic, Waitrose and online) the RQP is astonishing - they drink well but are not a quaff, are uncomplicated without being dull, plus work well with or without food. I was volunteered to source the wine for a family and friends bash and Domaine Sainte Rose was an easy choice. Being known as a bit of a wine buff meant high expectations in some quarters, but there were plenty of positive comments.

Le Vent du Nord is a blend of Chardonnay and Rousanne which combine to give some aromatic interest to a delicious citrus base. The warm spicy La Garrigue is Syrah with Grenache these days (all the wines were 2009) yet still retains the hints of outdoor wildness only those who have visited the region will fully relate to. Mourvèdre, once used in La Garrigue, goes into Les Derniers Cépages along with Bordeaux hard-man Petit Verdod, giving a wine with some delicious ripe tannins.

Mystery White DIV'IN

I was given this wine by a wine maker. All I know beyond its colour (white) comes from the label and, obviously only visibly on broaching, wording on the cork. In essence the label states: - DIV'IN mademmoiselleroxane Vin de Table de France Roxane Almanza et Loic Mathieu Fontès 34320 13.5% L03.06 The cork has 2006 embossed on the top which may be confirming the year disguised in the code "L03.06". Also on the cork is an email address and, while encouragingly my enquiry hasn't bounced, so far I've had no reply.   Obviously these days information can be gleaned instantly from an internet search. What's extraordinary is that nothing at all wine related comes up for any of the words available. Everything about the wine and the makers avoids the www radar which effectively means a winery with zero marketing and publicity. My conclusion is a small production hobby wine reserved for friends and contacts. Either way, with pushing 1,000 independent producers registered in the region this must be one of many hiding away.

Fontès is the village above Caux on the other side of the basalt lava flow. Vinously, Fontès is dominated by a successful cooperative perhaps best known for its popular, keenly priced and harmless rosé. A successful cooperative usually means relatively few independents as the vines are accounted for. Judging by the cooperative's new and attractive reception area dominance looks set to continue.

In the glass this ocra tinted wine has a particularly distinctive and individual bouquet - very aromatic and Mediterranean with pine and beeswax. In the mouth there are savoury herbs with a wonderful balancing acidity. Overall a substantial and well made wine that will no doubt divide opinions when it comes to personal taste. The empty glass test reveals an impressive lingering persistence. The dregs of the bottle had yeast lees which would certainly have magnified the flavours.

I've no idea what the cepage is, although it seems reminiscent of mature Rousanne so that's my guess. I will seek to find out more.

France Show, but where is the Languedoc-Roussillon?

The France Show has been an annual early January event at Earls Court in London for some years. It seemed well attended but not heaving, although the offer of free tickets to (presumably) previous attendees like us suggests a numbers boost was sought. The event is essentially for deprived Francophiles and wannabe future French home owners. It splits into two halves physically. A more serious property, finance, legal and business section on the right vs. lifestyle - food, wine, travel, fashion, language, entertainment and the like - on the left.

Now France is pretty big – the Languedoc-Roussillon is one of 22 regions on the mainland. Nevertheless, for a region on the top tier in the expansion and tourism league it had a near zero presence. Just one obvious representation out of 150 exhibitors; a new build specialist based in Narbonne called Villas from Languedoc. Their website URL name is www.languedoc.co.uk as befits an established business of 28 years.

This is a wine blog so I’ll get back on topic with, on this occasion, much despair. I eyed well over 100 bottles on various stands and only spotted two L-R examples. There were two wine theatres and one was dedicated to Bordeaux. The other admirably featured Alsace and, seemingly forgetting this is January in London, Provence Rosé. The Sud de France logo, which covers food as well as wine, was nowhere to be seen. That said, with one cowboy stall charging £39 a kilo for 24 month old Comté to the uninformed, perhaps disassociation isn't a bad thing. That said, such extreme rip-offs were as rare as bargains.

We chatted to a charming couple who are 3D Wines www.3dwines.com and operate a vine rental scheme that supports small family operated vineyards. Their portfolio is 33 strong but with zilch from the L-R and just 3 from the Rhône to prop up the south. While they did tell us to "watch this space", we concurred that image and the lack of icon wines remain as L-R challenges.

I'll end on a more positive note. The Languedoc-Roussillon's reputation as a hidden secret is safe for now.

Old Red Wine

My last post touched on a lunch with some special classic wines brought along by a group of disparate wine lovers. I remarked that only 2 of the 14 wines were of this century, including the Mas de L'Écriture 2001 I brought to the party. The other was a Ruchottes Chambertin F Esmonin (Burgundy of course) and was the wine I’d most like to imbibe again. The oldest was 1966 Chateau Palmer (Bordeaux) along with Graham’s port of the same year.
The event prompted me to ponder some fairly deep personal matters – vinous of course. It distils down to this - ‘has my taste changed to favour younger red wine’?

I discovered wine in the early 1980s. In hindsight this could be considered the golden age of wine given that, with the exception of the so called Bordeaux great growths and a few equivalents, icon wines were affordable. A 10 year old Palmer from a modest vintage back then cost me a similar amount after inflation to the L'Écriture. These days Palmer is ×5 and up that of L'Écriture. Of course much has changed in 30 years. Fine wine has become a serious investment and therefore distorts values of course, but most crucial has been the revolution in wine making know-how and equipment. Poor vintages are enjoyable rather than near undrinkable or even a write-off. Often overlooked is that wines back then were usually made to go with food, or more pertinently simply needed food, and traditionally rich food at that. They also possessed less alcohol generally and the fruit seemed to be in a lower key.

Most fine reds needed to be aged. In their youth they seemed tannic monsters, or at least somewhat hard, and most soon withdrew into a comparatively dumb period for several years. With luck, a palatable complex wine would eventually emerge, usually after several disappointing bottles had been broached along the way. Perhaps I exaggerate a to make a point, but this did apply to plenty of well reputed clarets I owned or tasted.

Some wines are still built to age of course, but most have riper tannins and fruit making them more attractive throughout their life. There are also new styles. So called fruit bombs mainly from the new world are one that don’t appeal. Vibrant, expressive, supple and perfectly balanced wines do.

Going back to my analysis of ‘has my taste changed’ then perhaps the answer is not so much ‘yes’, but more ‘my taste has grown to appreciate, and often prefer, certain modern styles’. There are several Languedoc domains making reds (from Mediterranean varieties) that I’m familiar with and with a proven track record of ageing well for 10 years or more. Along with L'Écriture, aged cuvees from Alain Chabanon, Virgile Joly, Mas Jullien, Marfée and Ollier Taillefer have all given great pleasure and, in the future as a treat, will continue to do so. Golden age the 1980s may have been, but with the choice and diversity available today certainly not missed by me.