Mystery White DIV'IN

I was given this wine by a wine maker. All I know beyond its colour (white) comes from the label and, obviously only visibly on broaching, wording on the cork. In essence the label states: - DIV'IN mademmoiselleroxane Vin de Table de France Roxane Almanza et Loic Mathieu Fontès 34320 13.5% L03.06 The cork has 2006 embossed on the top which may be confirming the year disguised in the code "L03.06". Also on the cork is an email address and, while encouragingly my enquiry hasn't bounced, so far I've had no reply.   Obviously these days information can be gleaned instantly from an internet search. What's extraordinary is that nothing at all wine related comes up for any of the words available. Everything about the wine and the makers avoids the www radar which effectively means a winery with zero marketing and publicity. My conclusion is a small production hobby wine reserved for friends and contacts. Either way, with pushing 1,000 independent producers registered in the region this must be one of many hiding away.

Fontès is the village above Caux on the other side of the basalt lava flow. Vinously, Fontès is dominated by a successful cooperative perhaps best known for its popular, keenly priced and harmless rosé. A successful cooperative usually means relatively few independents as the vines are accounted for. Judging by the cooperative's new and attractive reception area dominance looks set to continue.

In the glass this ocra tinted wine has a particularly distinctive and individual bouquet - very aromatic and Mediterranean with pine and beeswax. In the mouth there are savoury herbs with a wonderful balancing acidity. Overall a substantial and well made wine that will no doubt divide opinions when it comes to personal taste. The empty glass test reveals an impressive lingering persistence. The dregs of the bottle had yeast lees which would certainly have magnified the flavours.

I've no idea what the cepage is, although it seems reminiscent of mature Rousanne so that's my guess. I will seek to find out more.