tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-46329177620589181792024-03-06T07:53:53.167+01:00Languedoc WineNotes and observations on this exciting wine regionGrahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.comBlogger146125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-82285762298592306772016-01-21T10:09:00.000+01:002016-01-21T10:09:19.142+01:00Wine tasting with Charlemagne Wine ClubThe Charlemagne wine club <a href="http://www.charlemagnewineclub.co.uk/" target="_blank">www.charlemagnewineclub.co.uk</a> meets most months in Ealing, West London and has been going since 1974. Charlemagne isn't really a club, with no membership fee and open to all. Tastings are currently outstanding value at £20 and some are given by professional speakers. We first went in the early 1980s and every few years I host an evening presenting Languedoc wines. It's a lovely group to present to, being principally friendly enthusiastic wine lovers with varying degrees of wine knowledge.<br />
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I am fortunate in being able to source the wines in the region. This does mean, not intentionally and to the annoyance of some on the evening, that most wines are not available in the UK. The theme was growers that are favourites, either relatively recently or going back to the 1990s. This meant sticking to Mediterranean varieties but I deliberately went for a diversity of styles.<br />
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So, this was the line-up, two whites and six reds with a wine from Roussillon :-<br />
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<span style="color: purple;">Domaine Ribiera Y'a un Terret 2014</span> (Pézenas) Terret blanc<br />
<span style="color: purple;">Mas Gabriel Champ des Bleuets 2014</span> (Pézenas) Vermentino and Grenache gris<br />
<span style="color: purple;">Mas Brugière l'Arbouse 2013</span> (Pic St Loup) Syrah Grenache<br />
<span style="color: purple;">Mas Coutelou Le Vin des Amis 2014</span> (Puimisson) Syrah Grenache<br />
<span style="color: purple;">Terrasse d'Elise Le Pradel 2013</span> (Terrasses du Larzac) Cinsault<br />
<span style="color: purple;">Leon Barrel Jardis 2012</span> (Faugères) Carignan, Syrah, Grenache<br />
<span style="color: purple;">Domaine Treloar Motus 2011</span> (Roussillon) Mourvèdre<br />
<span style="color: purple;">Domaine Ollier-Taillefer Castel Fossibus 2006</span> blend of Syrah, Grenache, Carignan etc. (Faugères)<br />
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With the exception of the 2006 all the wines were decanted and poured back into their bottles on the morning of the tasting, an approach that weeded out a corked specimen. At the start I asked everyone to note their 3 favourite wines, plus to take it seriously as the vote would determine which bottles to open at the end with bread, cheese and conversation.<br />
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The <span style="color: purple;">Leon Barrel</span> and <span style="color: purple;">Treloar Motus</span> (a Roussillon interloper) polled the most votes with <span style="color: purple;">Mas Coutelou</span> and the other three reds following closely. Adjusting (roughly) the scores for price then <span style="color: purple;">Mas Coutelou</span> at about €10 edges it, but the only real conclusion to draw is that personal preference on style dominated.<br />
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The <span style="color: purple;">Domaine Ribiera Y'a un Terret</span> divided opinion the most, as it does our household. Some loved the complexity and nutty baked apple oxidative style, others found it too challenging. The <span style="color: purple;">Terrasse d'Elise Le Pradel</span> stood out stylistically to the Languedoc stereotype with a lighter more fragrant style and if pushed was my wine of the night. I loved the tannins and suppleness of the <span style="color: purple;">Treloar Motus</span>. Perhaps next time I'll present a Roussillon only tasting. The <span style="color: purple;">Ollier-Taillefer 2006</span> was made to age 10 plus years, although this bottle had reached the stage where it could have come from anywhere. <br />
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The following domaines have UK stockists I know of. Some have agents that only supply restaurants.<br />
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Mas Gabriel - <a href="http://www.thewinesociety.com/" target="_blank">Wine Society</a> and <a href="http://www.cambridgewine.com/" target="_blank">Cambridge Wine Merchants</a><br />
Mas Coutelou - <a href="http://www.lsfinewines.co.uk/" target="_blank">Leon Stolarski Fine Wines</a> and <a href="http://www.robersonwine.com/producers/mas-coutelou/" target="_blank">Roberson Wine</a> (but for reasons I'm not prepared to reveal prices in France are much less).<br />
Mas Brugière - <a href="http://www.yapp.co.uk/" target="_blank">Yapp Brothers</a><br />
Domaine Treloar - <a href="http://www.cambridgewine.com/" target="_blank">Cambridge Wine Merchants</a><br />
Leon Barral - <a href="http://www.buonvino.co.uk/" target="_blank">Buon Vino</a> (at the time of writing list the wine tasted)<br />
Terrasse d'Elise - <a href="http://www.buonvino.co.uk/" target="_blank">Buon Vino</a> (at the time of writing list a Syrah)Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-77151209583250469712015-10-21T15:56:00.001+02:002015-10-21T15:57:08.762+02:00Visit to Leon BarralIf asked the reasons for visiting a domaine then enthusiastic consumers, wine merchants/importers and journalists would exhaust my list of the obvious. The day after picking late harvest grenache at his Domaine Ribiera, Régis Pichon invited me to join him on a visit to meet Jean-Luc Barral. Jean-Luc is one of the two brothers who founded Domaine Leon Barral in Faugères back in 1993, calling it Leon after their grandfather. The purpose of the visit was to see some equipment.<br />
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The equipment in question has origins in Brazil and is used as a means of controlling grasses and "weeds". The French seem to call it a rolofaca. At Leon Barral there is no ploughing. In winter cows, horses and even pigs roam the vineyards to keep the vegetation in check. When the vines are active the roloafaca is used to gently break up vegetation and enable it to mulch into the soil. Rather than a traditional tractor a caterpillar version is used to avoid over compacting the soil - the tracks have a considerably greater surface area than tires.<br />
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The vines, starting to take on autumn colours, are on Faugères schist of course. The trunks are all well below knee hight so picking and pruning must be excruciating. Look carefully to see bones lying in amongst the lumps of schist.<br />
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In the winery the large traditional wooden press was being cleaned after a morning of pressing - look for the figure standing at the back for a sense of scale.<br />
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In 2010 construction of an extraordinary new chai started and is still ongoing. A chronological gallery of pictures is on the <a href="http://www.domaineleonbarral.com/Chai/Chai.html" target="_blank">Leon Barral website</a>. How long has this car been there?<br />
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Finally we were shown the black pigs feeding on the vines by a stream and oak forest of 18 ha where they roam. The organic waste from households in the village also goes to them.<br />
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Jean-Luc bonds with the contented hog who services 18 sows.<br />
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A treasure trove of sustainable viticulture. No ordinary Domaine, no ordinary visit, and not a glass of wine in sight.Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-32786058661213282442015-10-13T20:31:00.000+02:002015-10-13T20:31:45.552+02:00All over? It is now<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It can be measured in weeks since the main grape harvest was wrapped up. My 18th and final days picking took place 18 days after secateurs previously saw vineyard action. At <b>Domaine Ribiera</b> (Aspiran) two modest parcels of grenache were left patiently to let the grapes ripen further and shrivel a little. The objective was to produce a sweet Vin Doux Naturel - think modern vintage Banyuls or Maury in style. The old low yielding vines are sited on exposed windy slopes with thinning foliage as autumn beckons. This all combines to facilitate rapid drying after rain and those occasional humid days.<br />
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In 2014 all was lost to the deluges at the end of September that, more seriously, claimed several lives in the Hérault. This year the potential alcohol was around 16 degrees as mid-October approached. In order to make a Vin Doux Naturel with minimal winery intervention at least 20 degrees is needed for a good chance of a safe fermentation. For some reason (summer heat? too dry until mid-August?) ripening had been blocked for too long and 20 degrees wasn't going to happen. The Pichons decided to make Cartagene, a Languedoc speciality that involves adding alcohol to the must before fermentation gets going.<br />
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As usual the harvested grapes went through the de-stemmer and into a tank. To speed up the maceration they received 10 minutes of manual pigeage from Regis Pichon.<br />
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Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-11788687234029897122015-10-03T13:20:00.002+02:002015-10-03T13:20:23.936+02:00Independents - an upwards trendAspiran took the European Weekend of Heritage (patrimoine) seriously this year and included in the events and exhibitions was a display covering wine. Specifically highlighted were the Aspiran producers who now number 10, along with the cave cooperative (Clochers & Terroirs).<br />
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The longest established are <b>Domaine de Fabrègues</b> (1835) and <b>Chateau Malautié</b> (1900). <b>Domaine des Montèzes</b> arrived in 1995 having been displaced by the building of the A75 autoroute above Lodeve. The grapes around their Aspiran property apparently go to the cooperative with wine being made on site from grapes brought down from their Pégairolles de l’Escalette vineyards.<br />
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It was after 2000 that new arrivals took root, possibly fuelled by the decline of the cooperative before relatively recently joining the <b>Clochers & Terroirs</b> clan of cooperatives. Domaines <b>Mon Mourel, Ribiera, Clos Mathelisse, Villa Symposia, des dimanches</b> and most recently <b>Gregory White</b> and <b>Mas Troqué</b> complete the list.<br />
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Interestingly several producers in nearby villages have vineyards in the commune, ones I know about being <b>Mas Costefere</b> (Adissan), <b>Julien Peyras</b> (Paulhan) and <b>Domaine les Quatre Amours</b> (Bélarga).<br />
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Are there trends here? Of the new arrivals at least two (David Caer of <b>Clos Mathelisse</b> and Christelle Duffours of <b>Mas Tronqué</b>) have strong local roots. The six most recent arrivals practice organic standards with minimal intervention in the cave. Five of them appear regularly at Vins Nature events.<br />
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Perhaps the main observation is that villages with relatively dynamic and successful cooperatives have content viticulteurs and precious little land for sale, so have few independents. Witness nearby Fontès and Cabrières that both have exciting terroirs but few independents. The nearest equivalent commune with a similarly diverse land (limestone Villafranchien and galets roulés, clay with silt and limestone, basalt et al) is Caux, where independents also thrive while the abandoned cave cooperative building decays into an eyesore.<br />
<br />
Wine from almost all the producers can be purchased from the Aspiran Tabac which is by the village crossroads. Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-35545146836012966272015-09-25T18:01:00.001+02:002015-10-02T18:27:17.191+02:006th year of grape pickingMy 6th season of grape picking is more or less over. Obviously the experience has become familiar with much of the mystique long gone - now more than replaced with catching up with friends. The magic remains as fresh as ever along with the collective energy and sense of common purpose of the team.<br />
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For anyone who fancies picking here are some observations.<br />
<br />
<b>Picking is hard on back</b>. Well, certainly there is much bending over for hours and several muscles are in for a shock. Squatting is also necessary at times to give visibility and uses different muscles so gives gives the back some relief. Experienced pickers are generally able to avoid this and save energy. Plucking away a few obscuring leaves is the key to this.<br />
In a well organised team porters will shift buckets and cagettes so pickers can avoid lifting. For many day 3 is the hardest before the body settles in and things ease (a little). Nevertheless, the reality is that individual backs react differently. Personally I find the whole experience helps strengthen those all important back supporting muscles.<br />
<br />
<b>Picking is hard work</b>. As a sustained effort beyond a couple of hours a certain degree of stamina is required. The ability to concentrate when tired is critical. As ever, experience results in a less energetic technique.<br />
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<b>The partying is hard</b>. Draw your own conclusions.<br />
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<b>Not all varieties are equal</b>. Dealing with a waist high goblet of old Grenache with light foliage is on a par with shelling peas. Generously cropping Syrah on trellis wires that extend to above head hight is exhausting and frustrating with bunches hidden away at all levels.<br />
<br />
<b>Triage</b>. Grapes grown to organic standards may produce superb fruit, but bio-diverse environments create a gamete of organisms to attack what is a monoculture crop. Selecting only perfect bunches is the main reason for hand picking and is the one area that demands experience, but the simple rule is don't pick anything you wouldn't eat.<br />
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<b>There are dangers</b>. Secateurs cut fingers and each season there are a couple of minor incidents and I have been a statistic - everyone does it once. Amazingly I've only witnessed one retirement. Concentration and always looking are critical.<br />
Brambles and thistles also pose hazards. Fingers, and especially finger nails, become stained (a slice of lemon rubbed in helps clean them up). Those of a vain disposition wear gloves, but touch and feel are a crucial part of efficiently rejecting unhealthy bunches.<br />
<br />
<b>Allergies</b>. Living vineyards are full of organic materials and picking some varieties entails literally burying one's head in a dry dusty vine occasionally. As the scorching summer sun retreats a second season of plant growth ensues - more pronounced with occasional rain to fuel it. Hay Fever suffers (like me) need to be aware and take precautions.<br />
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<b>Clothing takes a battering</b>. Yes. But at least, for some reason, grape stains wash out more easily than wine stains.<br />
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Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-52770449459375112402015-06-24T19:13:00.000+02:002015-06-24T19:13:06.498+02:00Journée oenotouristique with Les Beaux Nez RougesGroups of small independent growers banding together to do marketing is not new. The coopératives movement that started over 100 years ago was about collectively marketing wine before the construction of the cavés we see today. The <a href="http://languedoc-outsiders.com/en" target="_blank">Outsiders</a> group and <a href="http://www.vinifilles.fr/" target="_blank">Vinifilles</a> are two contemporary examples from the region with the themes of growers from outside the region and vigneronnes respectively. The theme for <a href="https://www.facebook.com/events/1578096719144403/" target="_blank">Les Beaux Nez Rouges</a> is they share the same oenologue Hervé Chabert, albeit that for many he seems more a friend, sounding board and a man with a portable bottling line. The diverse styles of wines being made back this up - these are independently minded growers.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lunch beckons at Villa Symposia</td></tr>
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Apparently the group have held an annual event for 10 years. This
year over 100 enthusiasts headed to Villa Symposia in Aspiran -
seemingly the epicentre of the groups vineyards with the majority visible
from the commune. The format of the day is an outdoor tasting followed
by lunch and optional promenades en calèche (horse carriage rides). The
quality of the buffet lunch created by the vigneron's families is taken
as seriously as the wine making. Sensational sour-dough baguettes were
ordered from the wood burning ovens in nearby Canet, pélardons from Mas
Rolland, chèvre tomme from the Larzac, organic vegetables from the commune, 25 Kg of fruits including
strawberries picked in the Aude the day before.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Post lunch</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Promenades en calèche</td></tr>
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<br />
Eight
vignerons were showing 23 wines between them so tasting everything
wasn't onerous. The majority of bottles were under €10 making it the most modestly priced tasting line up I've attended for ages.<br />
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Here are some highlights<br />
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<b>Domaine Bonetto Fabrol (Philippe Bonetto)</b> are north of Orange in the Rhône and had the furthest to travel. The journey will have temporarily upset their wines but enough promise and interest came through <b>Colombier 2014</b> (Grenache, Syrah) and <b>Heritage 2013</b> (Syrah) that I purchased a couple of bottles. Nice perfume and softness, especially pronounced on the Heritage (sic) Syrah. The only openly biodynamic producer present.<br />
<br />
This was my first encounter with <b>Domaine Emile et Roses (Marcel Gisclar)</b> at a tasting. The <b>Carignan blanc 2014 </b>was just starting to come to life with fresh garrigue herbs and lovely integrated acidity plus a bit of body. The reds weren't for me. For <b>Léa 2011</b> (Grenache, Syrah and Cabernet) I noted "woody woodpecker". Unfortunately Marcel wasn't showing his Cinsault or Aramon and I was shocked to learn that his delicious inexpensive Mouvedre is no longer made. This makes our couple of bottles sort of irreplaceable.<br />
<br />
<b>Mas d'Agalis (Lionel Maurel) Le Grand Carré 2014</b>
(Terret, Clairette, Vermentino and Chenin Blanc) was certainly the
wildest white on show - spiky, apples and nuts, refreshing. Will divide
opinion but not mine. <b>Yo no puedo mas 2013 (Carignan with Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault)</b> is a red that ping-pongs savoury fruits around the palate and has become one of our favourites.<br />
<br />
<b>Villa Symposia</b> (Eric Prissette) were the home team. The prevailing gale was keeping everyone cool and would have passed through their vines just seconds before reaching us. <b>Blanc 2014</b> (Grenache, Carignan, Terret) is their best so far and they've absolutely nailed the level of oak to my taste i.e. you barely notice it. <b>Amphora 2013</b> (Cinsault with some Syrah) is proper red wine with some grippy tannins yet supple character. <b>Equilibre 2012</b> (Syrah plus Carignan, Mourvèdre amd Grenache) is more savoury with more length and obvious but well integrated oak.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Winemaker Nenko Dunev with venue owner Éric Prissette</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">David Caer pours his crunchy Cinsault</td></tr>
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<b>Clos Mathelisse (David Caer)</b> makes one red, <b>Exorde 2013</b>
(Cinsault) which is our house and party wine - crunchy with hints of
bitter cherries, uncomplicated inexpensive drinking. The only pure
Cinsault on show but a good one. I think the secret is the cool north
facing aspect of the vineyard.<br />
<br />
<b>Domaine Grégory White</b> took over the promising Mas d'Arlenques a couple of years ago when the previous owner was forced to retire with back trouble.<b> White is Rosé 2014</b> (Grenache, Cinsault) is a relatively rare no added sulphur rosé. Soft peach nose with a palate that lets the light in. <b>Terret 2013</b> has hints of the sea and iodine and an acidity that isn't contrived. <b>Jamais pas Soif 2014 </b>(Grenache)
I'd tasted a couple of months before and found it a touch too much heady
fruit gourmandise, now seemingly calmer and more interesting.<br />
<br />
<b>Domaine Ribiera (Régis Pichon)</b> have no red wine until the 2014s are bottled in a few weeks time. <b>Y'a un Terret 2013</b> has a mineral flint character and structure that's rare in the midi. <b>Canilles R... 2013 </b>
(Rousanne) manages to be a Rousanne that avoids being heavy and
aromatic, the secret being no added sulphur apparently so the result is more northern
Rhone than midi. <b>Canilles 2014</b> (Clairette) is more subtle and understated with flowers, citrus fruits and fennel.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grégory White enjoys his zero sulphite rosé</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cool as mid-summer's day - Christine and Régis Pichon</td></tr>
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Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-70589285064729794552015-05-01T15:58:00.003+02:002015-05-01T15:58:55.898+02:00Montpeyroux Toutes caves ouvertes 2015The annual Montpeyroux bash has suffered with rain over the past two editions. At least this year there were dry periods and mild temperatures with all the tasting taking place well under cover. At least the crowds were manageable and mild dull weather does not detract from the business of tasting.<br />
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<br />
There were 22 caves participating - 21 growers and the cooperative, so pretty much all the producers. An event like this requires a different perspective to a specialised wine fair where producers are selected from a wide area. Not everyone is producing wine that stands out, bears scrutiny or seeks international markets. Another challenge is there were a fair number (too many) 2014 wines on tasting that needed bottle time to integrate.<br />
<br />
A very pleasant surprise was <b>Le Petit Domaine</b>, established barely 2 years ago by Julie Brosselin and Aurélien Petit. Between them they have practised oenology, being a caviste, tendering vineyards and making wine. Having restored a couple of abandoned old vine vineyards they have been able to become established in a village with some of the most expensive vine lands in the region. The <b>Blanc</b> with Terret and Clairette had delicious acidity and a lovely structure. The Cinsault dominated <b>ne touche pas le grisbi 2013</b> (€13) was vibrant and evolving and I returned to make a purchase. Also interesting was a pure Syrah <b>Myrmidon 2013 -</b> crunchy, savoury, not too baked and drinking well.<br />
<br />
<b>Aupilhac</b> put on a splendid show with over 16 wines on tasting including a table of mature wines going back to a somewhat peppery could be anything 2003. Showing particularly well was the <b>"Lou Maset" 2013</b> a Grenache and Cinsault dominated blend. Essentially the domain's entry red (€7.80) there's a foundation of proper tannins with layers of red fruit. This is a cellar with some magical old vats. Delicious drinking that I preferred to the bigger, more leathery <b>Montpeyroux 2012</b> (€14.70). The near legendary <b>Le Carignan 2012</b> (€17.70) was still young and pretty tough, but extraordinarily complex in the mouth and a wine to chew on in the nicest sense.<br />
<br />
<b>Mas d’Amile</b> have been making consistently excellent pure Carignan for nearly a decade. Like the Aupilhac, the <b>Vieux Carignan 2013</b> (€10) was also complex en bouche. I'm surprised given the quality of the Carignan in the village more growers aren't inspired to attempt a pure cuvée.<br />
<br />
Along with Aupilhac, Pascale Rivière's <b>La Jasse Castel</b>
was showing a good selection. <b>L'Égrisée (2014) blanc</b> (Grenache with some Carignan blanc and Roussanne) was racy with intriguing floral and citrus grapefruit. The reds were all from 2013 and would have benefited from more bottle age, even the unoaked <b>La Pimpanela</b> was a little tight. <b>Blue Velours</b> (Carignan and Syrah) and <b>Les Combariolles</b> (Grenache) certainly showed some potential for keeping.<br />
<br />
Disappointments? <b>Domaine de l'Escarpolette</b> was absent this year, unfortunate as there were some interesting wines on show two years ago. I also had hopes for <b>Domaine du Joncas</b>, but the reds especially were too crafted for my taste and not expressive enough to press any buttons.<br />
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The 8th (afternoon) and 9th May sees the <a href="http://www.saint-saturnin-en-languedoc.com/blog/2015/03/le-printemps-fete-ses-vignerons" target="_blank">Le Printemps Fête Ses Vignerons</a> at nearby Saint Saturnin. This is essentially where all the domaines mainly to the east, north and west of Montpeyroux have their turn.<br />
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<br />Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-66778649601589128032015-04-19T16:55:00.000+02:002015-04-19T16:55:04.953+02:00Wine Fair 3rd MayThe 5th edition of the Festival des Vins Natures will be on 3rd May near Adissan, 10 Km north of Pezenas. The last edition was two years ago in Roquebrun - my comments are <a href="http://languedoc-wine.blogspot.fr/2013/06/festival-des-vins-natures-4th-edition.html" target="_blank">here</a>. This years setting in a copse of trees with a commanding view and small chapel is equally attractive.<br />
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For those wishing to enjoy the late lunch the menu Roman Henry Niess is proposing (no vegetarian option - we asked) is :-<br />
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Tartine grillée à l'ail, oeufs mollets froid confits à l'huile d'olive au piment d'Espelette, ventrèche seche et jeunes pousses [essentially egg and bacon on toast]</div>
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Poitrine de cochon "Ibaiona" d'Eric Ospital, pommes de terre , condiments Savora/Moutarde [belly of pork with potatoes]</div>
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Ganache au chocolat et chantilly citron vert [chocolate with lime infused whipped cream]</div>
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Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-47502632132202055582015-04-15T12:37:00.001+02:002015-10-02T15:34:49.453+02:00Salon des Vins Nature BédarieuxThis was a first visit to what has become a regular spring event in Bédarieux organised by Christine Cannac. Held in the small sheltered Place outside her wine bar Chai Christine Cannac, the organisation was exceptional. Having commented on the somewhat limited publicity, any more attendees would have made it overcrowded. To sustain everyone there was an efficient buffet serving inexpensive tasty plates. Live music boosted the atmosphere. All of the 64+ wines on tasting were for sale, but could only be purchased from the chai - a neat idea freeing the vignerons to devote all their attention to showing their wines. It also made buying much easier - I would have needed to return and interrupt four growers.<br />
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The overall standard of wines was high and nothing I tasted (just over half the wines) were overly volatile or funky. By and large the grapes were allowed to show some varietal characteristics. While it no doubt helped that all the bottles were brought by the producers, it can also be seen as a sign of vins naturels coming of age - at least for the growers invited and what they presented. Vintages were mainly 2013.<br />
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<td><b>Mas D'Agalis</b> is a wine I've enjoyed on several occasions but is rarely seen and overdue a mention on this blog. Made in Nébian between the "official" appellations of Terrasses du Larzac and Pezenas, the reality is that there are bits of terroir here with equivalent potential.<span style="color: purple;">Yo no puedo mas</span> is a blend of the mainstream Languedoc red varieties and exudes balanced fruit with elegance and crunch. The white <span style="color: purple;">Grande Carré</span> is half Terret with Vermentino plus several other varieties and showed a lovely structure with a citrus finish. With both at just under €10 a bottle these were some of the best value wines on show.<br />
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<b>La Fontude</b> also joins the category of rarely seen. <span style="color: purple;">Entremonde </span>has Carignan and Aramon as the main grapes and I like the polished hardness and hint of nostalgic mouth feel on the palate.<br />
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The new to me <b>Domaine Riverton</b> was showing a particularly attractive Carignan <span style="color: purple;">Tombée du Ciel</span> that oozed freshness with a fruit perfume the Roussillon can so well. The <span style="color: purple;">Blanc Bec</span> was intriguing as I found it quite reductive - match head and flint - that would no doubt subside with a good decant and shake.</td>
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<b>Mas Coutelou</b> was showing an interesting rosé and two elegant and lively reds <span style="color: purple;">5 SO</span> (a pun on Cinsault) and <span style="color: purple;">Classe</span> (Carignan). All were excellent value.<br />
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<b>Yannck Pelletier</b>'s is an established name and his wines are seen on many of the regions best wine lists. <span style="color: purple;">L'Oiselet</span> (Cinsault) has always been reliable over the years and this 2013 had nice mouth grip with cool and (but not over the top) gourmandise fruits.<br />
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<b>Julien Peyras</b> is another Hérault valley grower with vineyards above Paulhan north of Pézenas. My favourite was <span style="color: purple;">Lo Tarral</span> (Grenach, Syrah, Carignan) with some nice supple fruit but at €14 not great value.<br />
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<b>Léon Barral</b>'s wines stood out in more ways than one - style and price. There was more concentration and extraction than anything else tasted on the day. Potential was there for layers of complexity, but on the day integrated structure was lacking. Bottles to keep and revisit. One attendee I was chatting to was very enthusiastic over the €40 <span style="color: purple;">Valinières</span>, no doubt seduced by the (well judged) oak ageing.<br />
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I deliberately tasted <b>Domaine Ribiera</b> and <b>Clos Methélisse</b> wines last as a point of reference. While I certainly had palate fatigue by then it did confirm that the the €11 and under wines were the stars on the day.<br />
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Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-1459504179249393572015-04-01T11:56:00.000+02:002015-04-19T16:22:45.249+02:00Wine Fair 4th April<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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A couple of Hérault wine fairs are coming up, both very much below the radar publicity wise.<br />
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Christine Cabac runs a (the) wine bar in Bédarieux and is the mastermind behind this Easter Saturday event. She emailed us the above fiche on request - better late than never. It should expand if you click on it.<br />
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The excellent list of 19 growers on the fiche is :-<br />
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François Aubry (Hérault) <span style="color: #990000;">La Fontude</span>, Brenas<br />
David Auclair (Ardèche) <span style="color: #990000;">La ferme du bout du ch’min</span>, Étables<br />
J. Audard, L. Boussu (Hérault) <span style="color: #990000;">Domaine Monts et Merveilles</span>, La Livinière<br />
Gilles Azam (Aude) <span style="color: #990000;">Domaine Les Hautes Terres</span>, Roquetaillade<br />
Didier Barral (Hérault) <span style="color: #990000;">Domaine Léon Barral</span>, Lenthéric<br />
Vincent Bonnal (Hérault) <span style="color: #990000;">Domaine de Pélissols</span>, Bédarieux<br />
David Caer (Hérault) <span style="color: #990000;">Clos Mathelisse</span>, Aspiran<br />
Alain Castex (Pyrénées-O.) <span style="color: #990000;">Casot des Mailloles</span>, Banyuls-sur-Mer<br />
Laurence Manya Krief (Pyrénées-O.) <span style="color: #990000;">Le petit domaine de Yoyo</span>, Albères/Banyuls<br />
Lionel Maurel (Hérault) <span style="color: #990000;">Mas d'Agalis</span>, Nébian<br />
Jean-François Nicq (Pyrénées-O.) <span style="color: #990000;">Les foulards rouges</span>, Montesquieu-des-Albères<br />
Yannick Pelletier (Hérault) <span style="color: #990000;">Saint-Nazaire-de-Ladarez</span><br />
Julien Peyras (Hérault) <span style="color: #990000;">Domaine Julien Peyras</span>, Paulhan<br />
Régis Pichon (Hérault) <span style="color: #990000;">Domaine Ribiera</span>, Aspiran<br />
Axel Prüfer (Hérault) <span style="color: #990000;">Le Temps des Cerises</span>, Le Mas Blanc<br />
Philippe Richy (Hérault) <span style="color: #990000;">Domaine Stella Nova</span>, Caux<br />
Frédéric Rivaton (Pyrénées-O.) <span style="color: #990000;">Latour-de-France</span><br />
Jean-Louis Tribouley (Pyrénées-O.) <span style="color: #990000;">Latour-de-France</span><br />
Wim Wagemans (Hérault) <span style="color: #990000;">Le bouc à trois pattes</span>, Mons-la-Trivale<br />
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I have also been tipped off about a similar event on Sunday 3rd May near Adissan, between Pézenas and Clermont l'Hérault. Details will follow when I track them down.Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-24174030893676178532015-03-13T12:01:00.000+01:002015-03-14T00:48:34.400+01:00Personal Wine Laws and Principles<style type="text/css">
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A dozen personal Wine Laws and Principles. Some new, some artefacts from the archives.<br />
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<li>Taste wines blind and focus on whether you like them. Only then move on to provenance, style, age, value for money and the like. Not particularly practical at home if you know your cellar, but try with friends from time to time.</li>
<li>Don’t confuse expression of terroir with typicity of a region. Just because a white from a classic Loire region isn’t recognisable as Sauvignon blanc the wine can still (but not always) express it's origins.</li>
<li>If a wine isn’t to your taste don’t dismiss the grower. Commercial necessities often result in the production of various styles for various tastes and markets.</li>
<li>The same applies to grape varieties such as Cabernets, Merlot and Chardonnay grown in the Languedoc. This is a bias I struggle to overcome.</li>
<li>From good growers the so called lesser (inexpensive) wines can often drink better than the “top” cuvées. This can especially hold true in restaurants when a prestige wine may need more age and more expensive often means lots of flashy oak, generous extraction and bottles with more than 11 units of alcohol.</li>
<li>One difference often found between professionals and amateurs is that professions will assess a wine in absolute quality terms while an amateur will focus more on whether they actually like a wine. Some professionals will subtly elude to both in their writings, politics permitting.</li>
<li>If you don’t like a wine because it’s left field and you struggle for reference points then make a note to revisit it in the future – more often that not it will grow on you and even become a favourite.</li>
<li>Don’t be put off drinking red wine in the heat of summer. Cool them right down; they warm up quickly once poured if necessary. Conversely try rosés, or at least full bodied ones, all year round.</li>
<li>There are no such wines as natural wines, only growers who like to call themselves natural winemakers.</li>
<li>Being a natural wine maker means minimal intervention in the winery, but requires just as much work and demands more skill and experience to get right.</li>
<li>“on the limit” zero-sulphite wines are susceptible to warm temperatures, especially if the change is sudden such as a couple of days and nights in the boot of a car.</li>
<li>Don’t take matching food and wine too seriously. If a wine doesn’t match a dish or even a meal just take a pause. That said, there are wines that really work magic with the right food and these should be supported or they will disappear. Local food with local wine is the rule here.</li>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">19th Century cépage illustration</td></tr>
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<br />Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-6492840310560362232015-02-06T18:43:00.001+01:002015-02-06T18:45:49.404+01:00Driving to the UK Part 2 - Where to StopThere are constraints with stopovers. This being a wine blog then staying somewhere that avoids driving to eat is important. A consideration for larger towns is parking and security as lugging everything to a hotel room is essential with street parking almost anywhere. Reasonably priced/budget hotels with some form of secure parking tend to be on the outskirts but at least these days the larger towns (Rouen, Orleans, Clermont-Ferrand) have tramways that make the journey into the centre easy and predictable.<br />
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Suggestions for dining and sleeping are influenced by personal preferences – economical, simple, clean, quiet accommodation; not put off by walking a Km or more from the hotel and splashing out on an occasional up to date gourmet restaurant with good wine that can set one back over €150 for two.<br />
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<span style="color: purple; font-weight: bold;">Near the channel ports - La Cour de Remi</span>
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A strong
recommendation wherever it was sited, <a href="http://www.lacourderemi.com/" target="_blank">La Coer de Rémi</a> is only 1h15m from the channel ports just
east of Hesdin. Sited in the grounds of an estate a courtyard conversion has yielded spacious rooms and an
atmospheric contemporary dining room. For good measure add a Bistro menu that
would shine in Paris plus a highly personalised wine list full of value.<br />
This is also a good base for the Somme WW1 museums and memorials.<br />
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<span style="color: purple; font-weight: bold;">Interesting Towns ordered north to south</span><br />
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<span style="color: purple; font-size: large; font-weight: bold;">Rouen</span><br />
Large busy town on the Seine a couple of hours or so from the channel ports. The Ibis/Mercure is conveniently next to where the A28 meets the Seine and has a secure underground car park. <a href="http://www.restarant-origine.comu/" target="_blank">Origine</a> delivered one of our best 2014 creative dining experiences, but otherwise the dining scene is mixed to say the least - beat the streets to find somewhere busy with locals.<br />
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<span style="color: purple; font-size: large; font-weight: bold;">Chartres</span><br />
Dominated by the famous cathedral the old town and banks of the Eure are pleasant for wandering around. Chartres is also well positioned if only stopping one night when doing the west of Paris route. Downsides are the budget hotels are a fair way from the centre and this is not a city for a gourmet meal. The easy to find <a href="https://bistrotchartres.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Bistrot de la Cathédrale</a> at least has a good atmosphere and some hearty dishes.<br />
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<span style="color: purple; font-size: large; font-weight: bold;">Orleans</span><br />
On the splendour of the Loire where for some real France begins when heading south. Several budget hotel options with secure parking on the outskirts and the tramway makes an evening in town simple. Not the most exciting town for dining out but natural wine lovers can console themselves in <a href="http://www.lesbecsavin.com/" target="_blank">Les Becs à Vin</a> (Place du Châtelet by Les Halles).<br />
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<span style="color: purple; font-size: large; font-weight: bold;">Dijon</span><br />
Interesting buildings and museums plus a gastronomic heritage are the plus points. The <a href="http://www.hotelallees.com/" target="_blank">Logis Hôtel Des Allées</a> is friendly and pleasant with courtyard parking and an easy walk into town.<br />
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<span style="color: purple; font-size: large; font-weight: bold;">Auxerre</span><br />
Delightful medieval town of manageable size on the Yonne. The central Ibis has a great location with parking along the river (empty your vehicle). Sadly eating out is a bit of a mixed bag.<br />
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<span style="color: purple; font-size: large; font-weight: bold;">Sancerre</span><br />
Attractive hilltop wine town. Not overtly tourist but enough to ensure a fair selection of accommodation and restaurants. Sited on the central place <a href="http://latoursancerre.fr/" target="_blank">La Tour</a> just about lived up to its Michelin star but wasn't memorable.<br />
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<span style="color: purple; font-size: large; font-weight: bold;">Bourges</span><br />
Large but not daunting town in the centre of France with and some well preserved medieval streets and buildings. The impressive cathedral tower is worth climbing for the view and exercise. For a delightful change of pace take a walk past the gardens and waterways of the Marais.<br />
The old town proffers a selection of restaurant but for something special <a href="http://www.restaurant-lecercle.fr/" target="_blank">Le Cercle</a> gets it right.<br />
Although not particularly central, give the <a href="http://www.les-tilleuls.com/" target="_blank">Logis Les Tilleuls</a> a try (convenient for Le Cerle), otherwise friends recommend the Hôtel D'Angleterre where garage parking can be pre-booked.<br />
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<span style="color: purple; font-size: large; font-weight: bold;">Clermont Ferrand</span><br />
Beyond the imposing dark basalt Cathedral Clermont Ferrand is more a functional than attractive town. However, several edge of town hotels by the tramway and near the autoroute smooth the logistics. The cooking plus stunning wine list at the inexpensive <a href="http://www.sainteutrope.com/" target="_blank">Le Saint Eutrope</a> won’t disappoint. Run by the hands-on couple who previously operated Chassignolles (see below) Harry Lester also sources regional wines for the <a href="http://www.gergoviewines.com/" target="_blank">Gergovie Wines</a> in London. Otherwise the town punches above its weight with Michelin macarons.<br />
Being at the gateway to the A75 Clermont-Ferrand is little more than 3h from the Hérault so there will be time to spend a good couple of hours in the interesting Michelin Museum (free secure visitor parking and near a tramway).<br />
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There are too few country retreats in this list. To redress the balance a bit: -<br />
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The <a href="http://www.aubergedechassignolles.com/" target="_blank">Auberge de Chassignolles</a> (open May to October) is perhaps a bit close to the region to be an ideal stopover. On the other hand, at little more than 3 hours from the heart of the Languedoc and 45m from the A75 J20 south of Issoir, is also suited for an overnight excursion. Chassignolles is more a hamlet than village high up in the meadows and forests of the Auvergne. Come here for gimmick free tasty simple dining, carefully chosen wines (Domaine Ribiera is listed) and inexpensive accommodation. Run by Bristol chef legend Peter Tayor the result is something the French struggle so hard to deliver in the modern era.<br />
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Other towns on the list to explore are Gien, Troyes, Blois.Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-91209792056095221802015-02-02T12:16:00.000+01:002015-02-02T12:16:03.708+01:00Driving to the UK (to transport that wine) Part 1The subject of driving to the UK from the Midi comes up quite frequently with friends and acquaintances in both physical and social media environments. Sometimes the context is driving vs. flying. Assuming flying implies the need for a hire car then, all things being equal, fly for a trip of less than three weeks as costs should be less and travelling time is reduced. Of course there are many determining nuances to consider – number of travellers, luggage needs and pets, convenience and cost of a UK air route, age and size of car, the number of willing drivers and any plans to visit elsewhere en route. Perhaps, and this is a wine blog, the ability to bring back wine will be the most critical of all.<br />
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What surprises is how many who drive always treat the journey as a rally, only stopping for fuel, loos, leg stretches and to rotate drivers. Avoiding overnight accommodation and even meal costs makes this tactic economical and does maximise the time spent in the beloved south.<br />
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This post covers the express driving routes to the main channel ports. Part 2 proposes detours and wine friendly stopovers for those wishing, even if only occasionally, to take two or more days crossing France.<br />
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<span style="color: purple; font-weight: bold;">To/from the central France – A75, A20 or A7?</span>
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Without contemplating a major detour around the hexagon or a seriously sedate crossing the Massif Central there are realistically three routes between the Languedoc-Roussillon and central France. Between the centre and the main Channel ports more variations are available, but again broadly three routes.<br />
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Taking the A75 is the obvious route when based in the centre of the Languedoc-Roussillon. Packed with stunning mountain scenery for over 250Km and featuring two passes over 1000m it is, bar the wonder of crossing the Millau bridge, toll free as far as Clermont-Ferrand.<br />
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To the west picking up the A20 north of Toulouse also carves through hilly terrain and is toll free for much of the route after Toulouse.<br />
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Finally to the east is the A7 up the Rhone valley to Lyon and beyond. The downsides of this route are many. The Rhone valley is an industrial and transport artery making for plenty of indifferent scenery. The A7 is also perennially busy, Lyon has to be negotiated and there is no relief from tolls. Nevertheless, this can be the last route to suffer winter weather and is the quickest way for wine lovers taking in the Burgundy, Jura and Champagne regions.<br />
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Location in the Languedoc makes a difference when time is of the essence. Anywhere where Carcassonne is nearer than Narbonne makes the A20 the main contender. East of Montpellier and the A9 starts to look more attractive to avoid back-tracking. In between the A75 is the obvious choice.<br />
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<span style="color: purple; font-weight: bold;">Paris or not</span>
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Traversing Paris well out of rush hour makes it the quickest route. A popular option avoiding the notorious Périphérique and the boring lorry bulging A1 uses the relatively new A86 tunnel on the west side of Paris. Heading south take the A16 from Boulogne to Paris. At the end the A16 turn right onto the N184 and soon after left onto the A115 that joins the A15 just before the A86 turnoff. At the end of the long A86 tunnel section take the N12 west and then the N10 south west. At Ablis pick up the N191 to the A10 and on to Orleans. It’s complicated, but friends always go this way.<br />
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<span style="color: purple; font-weight: bold;">West and East around Paris</span>
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Avoiding Paris the most popular route is to the West via (direction south) Rouen and Chartres before joining the A10 autoroute north of Orleans. After Orleans the A71 leads to Bourges and the A75 at Clermont-Ferrand. For the A20 turn off the the A71at Vierzon. This route does have slower bits – Rouen, around Dreux and Chartres where heading though town is as quick as the long bypass. In between is mostly quiet toll free dual carriageway, but use the A16 péage between Boulogne and Abbeville.<br />
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The route to the east involves the A26 from the channel ports via Reims and Troyes and if avoiding Paris is an option for Lyon and Montpellier. A scenic and toll relieving alternative with some attractive open country is to go from Troyes to Auxerre and on to the Loire valley at Cosne-Cours and the heart of Sancerre country. Head down to Nevers and Moulins (mostly dual carriageway) then cut across to Saint-Pourçain and pick up the autoroute just north of Gant to join the A71.Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-70853749876026330342014-11-21T10:36:00.004+01:002015-05-01T16:02:05.252+02:00Observations on Naked Wines<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-tgiSCOvnpDLT-AdEWE5Di5wX-83sNfE6CMUVmjjAtfj2mD3v7bgU17tNnfB_5IETZaVwQH-RtfAfUeK1PnbhU6R3eg28zlN6a0IqJW0sgca_Eg6O51IFN56HH-TnF2V-UYADodnwLQo/s1600/nakedwines1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; margin-top: 4em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-tgiSCOvnpDLT-AdEWE5Di5wX-83sNfE6CMUVmjjAtfj2mD3v7bgU17tNnfB_5IETZaVwQH-RtfAfUeK1PnbhU6R3eg28zlN6a0IqJW0sgca_Eg6O51IFN56HH-TnF2V-UYADodnwLQo/s1600/nakedwines1.jpg" height="600" width="181" /></a><br />
I’ve written very little on this blog about two of the biggest challenges for small independent wine producers. How to raise finance and how to market their wine. Big subjects requiring serious professional research, but I have some observations in a specific context.<br />
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Here are some perennial questions. Why is it so hard to sell small grower’s Languedoc wine to the UK market? How can a winegrower expand their business? How can sustainable finance (especially post 2008) be obtained? With limited time and budget, can wines be marketed in far away English speaking countries?<br />
There seems to be an answer that addresses all of these questions to some extent without introducing too many more.<br />
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I first came across Naked Wines back in 2011 when it was much talked about (mainly sceptically) on social media. Four highly respected Languedoc domains I’ve followed for years (Domain Jones, Virgil Joly, Domain Saint-Rose and O’Vineyards) are involved so add to my curiosity and intrigue.
For a description of Naked Wines' business there are links at the bottom of this post.<br />
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In brief, Naked Wines is essentially an on-line mail order platform where customers (can optionally) subscribe to help small wineries with capital and buy wines guided by customer ratings and discussions. There are two further crucial attributes. Everything is wine novice friendly and non-stuffy, plus there are photos and pen portraits of the winemakers themselves. You can even ask the winemakers questions on a shared forum. There are no wine fiches, just a few plain words to communicate the style of each wine.<br />
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Back in 2011 I was sceptical, mainly fuelled by: -<br />
<ul>
<li>A buyer cashback scheme felt
overly gimmicky. This has been discontinued and the customer proposition nicely simplified. Members, called angels, do pay a £20 monthly minimum towards
orders and this, their website states, funds winemakers (until the customer places and order).<br /> <br /> </li>
<li>Pricing has a “normal” along with a typically 25% to 50% discounted member’s price. This plays the game UK consumers love so the reality must be that more customers are attracted by this than put off. After all, the very successful now near nationwide Majestic is always peppered with plenty of rotating buy 2 bottles and save a quid or two deals. UK supermarkets permanently freature BOGOF et al promotions.<br /> <br /> </li>
<li>All the wines seem to be exclusive to Naked Wines so are not available elsewhere. In some cases the grapes won’t be from the
grower’s vineyards or even nearby, but this is explained for the wines I’ve checked. This makes assessing value for money guesswork. I have never seen nor received an answer to his, so concluded that if the winemakers are happy with their overall package of funding and sales that’s fine. All wines are scored as the percentage of customers who would buy again (as opposed to not buy). A simple mechanism that should ensure the perceived best value wines sell.
Many, including the four Languedoc growers, continue to make and market their regular lines.</li>
</ul>
At the time of typing a third (21) of the French wines listed are
Languedoc-Roussillon and they don’t dominate the cheaper wines. Will this expand the UK market? Given the growers produce separate ranges for Naked Wines then there isn't direct competition with established specialist merchants. A few customers will be lost to Naked Wines, but their marketing isn't really aimed at the established enthusiast or customer who likes a personal service. There are also plenty of quality small grower Languedocs yet to be represented in the UK.<br />
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With the emphasis on engagement with the personalities behind the wines hopefully Naked Wines can only nurture new wine lovers to take a more in-depth interest and move on. Growing the UK customer base is the one thing that should benefit everyone.<br />
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Jancis Robinson’s piece is here <a href="http://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/naked-revisited" target="_blank">jancisrobinson.com/articles/naked-revisited</a><br />
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Quartz offers an interesting business perspective here <a href="http://qz.com/181978/naked-wines-wine-is-ripe-for-disruption-and-this-man-is-doing-it/" target="_blank">qz.com/naked-wines-wine-is-ripe-for-disruption-and-this-man-is-doing-it</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.nakedwines.com/" target="_blank">Naked wines web site.</a>Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-88859311643501859492014-10-09T18:26:00.000+02:002014-10-09T18:26:12.238+02:002014 Vintage prospects<br />
For the past two vintages (2012 and 2013) the Languedoc, and indeed most French Mediterranean wine areas, have faired much better than the rest of France. The Languedoc avoided the 2012 wet spring and summer, in fact rainfall was well below par in most sectors. In 2013 the late cold wet spring was shared with the rest of France, but in many areas grenache struggled to set in the early June downpours. After that, buoyed by healthier water tables and sun, things purred along into a 2-3 week late harvest blessed with ideal weather.<br />
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By all accounts 2014 is a great deal more encouraging for France as a whole than the previous two growing seasons. However, for the Languedoc 2014 has been one of the more challenging of the millennium along with 2007, 2002 in the east and, for heat reasons, 2003.<br />
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First up there was very little rain for the 12 months to June 2014 with the region suffering the driest winter for 20 years. This reduced yield to varying degrees and the vines I've observed had noticeably less foliage as the summer went on. Water stress could have been much worse had there not been several summer storms to keep the vines going although some pockets received very little precipitation.<br />
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Hail damage was a France wide phenomenon over summer and, unusually, the Languedoc didn't escape. Vineyards in the Languedoc-Roussillon are a big target with La Clape along with significant parts of Corbieres and Minervois suffering extensive damage.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grenache vines on 9th October 2014 waiting to make a late harvest style red</td></tr>
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Nevertheless, the quality of the grapes was excellent and most whites, along with quantities of early ripening red varieties (such as Cinsault), were harvested before the storms of the 8th September. Further deluges followed on 17th and 29th. Each event deposited weeks, even months of rainfall in just a few hours with the axis from Béziers through to the Pic St Loup particularly affected. The storm of the 29th broke records for a single day's rainfall around Montpellier. I head an extreme story of a vineyard near Montpellier severely damaged by trees carried down by a torrent.<br />
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Some vineyard in the flatlands were under water to varying degrees for an extended period. Those on the slopes fared better, but matters were not helped by humid weather after the deluge on the 17th. The normal pattern after rain is for the bone dry Tramontane wind to dry the vines in hours. One upshot is that yields have been reduced further by the necessary triage. All these factors mean that for quality concious domains the harvest is down from 20% to over 60% on 2013. Mourvèdre, the latest ripening popular variety, will have suffered the most. Some good new is that the gaps between the storms were long enough for the acid/sugar balance of the grapes to stabilise.<br />
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<br />Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-80973951627147478322014-09-24T10:29:00.001+02:002014-09-24T10:29:08.500+02:00A lot of bottle at Villa Symposia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Large format bottles at <a href="http://www.vignoblesprissette.com/symposia.html" target="_blank">Villa Symposia</a> impressive winery outside Aspiran. For comparison the labelled bottle is standard size.Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-51199541891999110922014-09-11T23:41:00.003+02:002014-09-11T23:41:55.062+02:00I overlooked PastisFollowing on from my last post on marc and spirits I overlooked mentioning Pastis. Having nothing to do with grapes and wine is a good reason, but love it or hate it, aniseed based spirit and the Mediterranean are pretty inseparable.<br />
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Pastis has French origins in Provence and the big and well know names still come from beyond the Rhone. As with wine there are artisan producers, and as with fine and marc, there aren't many. Differentiation from large scale producers is through the use of fresh aromatic plants many producers grow themselves.<br />
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My tipple is <a href="http://www.aromatiques-homs.com/" target="_blank">Pastis des Homs</a> from the northern edge of the Larzac plateau. Added to the aniseed and liquorice base are 15 aromatic plants (thyme, rosemary, savory and the like) grown on site. The result is a taste at the fennel end of the aniseed spectrum with no bitterness. Light, yet is packed with flavour and almost has crunch. I also like the snow white it turns when water is added; most take on an unappetising yellow tinge. About €22, but as a bottle lasts me a season well worth it.<br />
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For a deeper star anise style try Pastis aux Plantes from <a href="http://www.parfums-marty.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&view=category&layout=listing&Itemid=511&lang=en" target="_blank">Bernard Marty</a>. Made in the heart of the Hérault at St Thibery several ingredients are included in the bottling so the maceration can continue until the bottle is finished.Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-13259999465995761652014-08-27T18:00:00.000+02:002014-08-27T18:00:46.059+02:00MarcI am not a big spirits drinker. I enjoy an island malt in winter on some of the days I haven't imbibed in alcohol. Needless to say when in Scotland......... I've also enjoyed fruit Eau de Vies over the years and currently the lightly oaked La Vieille Prune from Louis Roque is an at-home malt alternative. After a restaurant meal in France though my digestive of choice is a marc.<br />
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At the Faugères high summer fete this year Matthieu Frécon was demonstrating his still. The stove on the left heats the fermented brew and the boiled off alcohol and other vapours pass along the turquoise towel wrapped pipe to the vessel on the right. Here it condenses in a water cooled coil and the dribble of clear liquid going into the steel bucket is the result.<br />
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As I understand it the process is repeated before water is added to give the desired alcoholic strength.<br />
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Being principally a wine rather than fruit growing area the still is put to work on fermented stalk and skin leftovers. This produces an Eau de Vie called Marc (pronounced marr not mark, a mistake I made for many years). If the Marc is then aged in wood the result is coined Fine which is legislatively/geographically to Cognac or Armagnac as Méthode champenoise sparkling wine is to Champagne.<br />
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I generally prefer Marc to Fine for it's purity - the essence of grape stalks, pips and skins without any tannin. Served cold in an iced glass is a treat the more switched on restaurants offer. <br />
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Matthieu Frécon also provides a service for other producers. If you can find it, my recommendation would be for Virgile Joly's marc.<br />
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This 1895 Faugères Fine (bottled in 1985) was opened at the much missed Le Mimosa restaurant at the end of a soirée back in 2011. A privilege and interesting to try.<br />
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<br />Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-80148126757634072022014-07-04T17:41:00.000+02:002014-07-04T17:41:27.297+02:00Restaurants and wineWine lovers generally despair about how much restaurants mark up wine but fortunately have better knowledge than most to find value. They often spend more seeking something interesting but avoiding the overpriced and overrated icons many restaurant feel they just have to list (Grange des Pères is one of the most common Languedoc examples). Too many restaurants operate percentage mark-ups making more expensive wines unattractive.<br />
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A few years ago, pre banking meltdown, we stopped visiting one of the "best" restaurants in Pézenas - hardly high praise given Pézenas has always been a dining minefield. The house wine, that I discovered retailed at under €5, reached €20 making the mark-up on the trade price scandalous. Even more galling was that this neo-bistro (l'Entre Pots, now with new ownership) didn't have to fund such overheads as swish service, linen table cloths and flash stem-ware.<br />
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A fairer and more transparent system is to operate a fixed mark-up, the "droit de bouchon". In France, wine bars invariable double as a caviste, café and informal restaurant and the norm will be to typically add €7 to €12 on to the caviste price. Only expensive/rare bottles will be understandable exceptions to reflect the risks. To be fair, many restaurants that take wine seriously operate something closer to a fixed mark-up and value can be found with more expensive wines.<br />
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Drink locally is a tried and tested restaurant tip in wine regions. For a start they should be a match for the food and will invariably be sourced directly from growers and often at wholesale prices. Spot these and everyone wins.<br />
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I came across this faith restoring example at <a href="https://www.facebook.com/lamiparadis/info" target="_blank">L'Ami Paradis</a>, a new seasonal café resto at Mourèze in the Lac du Salagou area. Putting aside the fresh and tasty lunch (the main course "les burines" is stuffed courgettes) their short wine list represents near caviste prices. I'm not familiar with Domaine Campaucels. Trois Terres is seriously local and all about maximum Languedoc oomph. My (biased) pick would be the Ribiera Causse Toujours.<br />
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I put the 31 days in June down to post France World Cup celebrations.Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-15854701293241558042014-06-22T11:20:00.002+02:002014-06-22T11:20:54.839+02:00A wine book the Languedoc could do withWine books specific to the Languedoc are a mixed bag, but then that's the case for any wine region. The challenge; the Languedoc-Roussillon is vast and a hotbed of new entrants. This makes the useful half-life of any book covering growers and their wine much reduced.<br />
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Three books stand out for me. <br />
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<td><span style="color: purple;">Languedoc-Roussillon: The Wines and Winemakers by Paul Strang</span> has given most pleasure. Published in 2002 and out of print, but still worth acquiring second hand.
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<span style="color: purple;">Rosemary George's The Wines of the South of France</span> is of the same era, 2001, and is the definitive English guide with a focus on producers. Available for the Amazon Kindle, a physical copy will be tougher to track down. Fortunately Rosemary is a prolific poster on the region's definitive wine blog <a href="http://tastelanguedoc.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">tastelanguedoc.blogspot.com</a>
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While the above two will appeal to aficionados, <span style="color: purple;">The Wines of the Languedoc-Roussillon by Wendy Gedney </span>(2014) is an up to date introduction that will excel at inspiring and educating wine lovers to the region's total wine culture. Don't expect many producer recommendations - that need is best served by blogs these days. Read more about Wendy, her wine holidays and her book on <a href="http://www.vinenvacances.com/" target="_blank">www.vinenvacances.com</a><br />
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I must also mention <span style="color: purple;">Virgile's Vineyard: A Year in the Languedoc Wine Country</span>
by Patrick Moon<br />
(2004 and 2013). More an insight into local life with an appeal well beyond wine buffs, although I found Patric's food and produce orientated follow up <span style="color: purple;">Arrazat's Aubergines: Inside a Languedoc Kitchen</span> and even better read.<br />
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<td>The reality of publishing and publishers today means new specialist subject books are in decline. However, there is an alternative approach for authors. A year of so ago I took a punt and helped "crowd fund" Wink Lorch's book project Jura Wine. She regularly presents at my local <a href="http://www.charlemagnewineclub.co.uk/" target="_blank">Charlemagne Wine Club</a> and the evenings are always left-field, passionate and through provoking.<br />
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Sufficient backers paid for a copy in advance to go beyond just securing publication and Wink was able to write 350 pages with some tasteful professional photographs. Wherever you need it delivered to, you can purchase a copy directly from Wink here <a href="http://jurawine.co.uk/jura-wine-book/" target="_blank">jurawine.co.uk/jura-wine-book</a>
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Does the Jura and Languedoc have anything in common? For any overlap in wine styles you need to go the vin naturel route - the Jura is home to the father of modern natural wine in France, Pierre Overnoy. Less tenuous and more relevant, both are under appreciated and little understood regions.<br />
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Is such a fine book viable for the Languedoc? The Jura has 200 vignerons and the majority are presented in Wink's book and required several months of research visits. The Languedoc is simply so much bigger. The Herault valley area alone has over 200 producers and even Rosemary George's master-work covers barely 20.<br />
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I can't see anything remotely comprehensive in print happening, but more musings on this later.Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-68525710129283456942014-06-18T19:12:00.000+02:002014-06-18T19:12:13.078+02:00La Clape hail damageA hail storm hit La Clape on the evening of Friday 13th June and has caused significant damage, especially on the western (Narbonne) flank of the massif. Starting with hail stones the size of peas the storm lasted some 45 minutes with peach stone sized lumps doing the damage. Some 250 ha have been affected to varying degrees.<br />
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Chateau Ricardelle, with wines listed by no less than Berry Brothers & Rudd in the UK, has been the worst hit and will lose 90% of their crop from 38 ha of vines. Neighbour Domaine Peche Redon is reported to have lost an estimated third. As well as impacting the 2014 harvest, damage to the vine growth that will form buds the following year will severely affect 2015.<br />
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Hail damage in the Languedoc is rare and most vineyards are not specifically insured for hail damage. Perhaps the best hope will be for the ministry of agriculture to declare a natural disaster that will mean at least some payments will be made in compensation.<br />
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I have a particular fondness for the massif having helped pick grapes in a private vineyard near Peche Redon.Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-82322396339163571142014-04-11T23:08:00.001+02:002014-04-11T23:08:23.661+02:00BOGOF is spreading (as far as Florensac)Buy-one-get-one-free has long been criticised as a UK retail phenomena, or even national disease. There seems to be an established vicious circle with retailers making 2-for-1 offers with consumers seemingly lapping them up. Whether such deals offer value depends on the true price of the "one" of course.<br />
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Florensac lies on the flat lands near the southern end of the river Hérault and sports a seemingly successful cave cooperative. Re-branded as Vinipolis a spacious and swish boutique and tasting area has been constructed that also houses an excellent everyday restaurant <a href="http://www.vinipolis.fr/le-bistrot-d-alex" target="_blank">Le Bistrot d'Alex</a> (€22 three course lunch menu) where their wines are almost given away.<br />
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Unmissable en-route to the restaurant was this promotion - essentially the equivalent of 12 bottles of rosé for €25. Having consumed the Rosé d'Eté with lunch my judgement is thumbs up for deal. The wine is a masterpiece of technological wine making and perfect for quaffing without a thought rather than something to analyse/discuss. Just as well as our friend went for both deals so it won't be long before the next glass or two - proving the rosé weather holds.<br />
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<br />Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-14717522395042358242014-03-22T16:57:00.001+01:002014-03-22T16:59:14.169+01:00Can labels go too far?We purchased a couple of bottles on a trip to Paris recently from an excellent caviste we came across, Crus et Decouvertes at 7 rue Paul Bert in the trendy 11th arrondissement. Not Languedoc bottles though, even I try to get out a bit wine wise.<br />
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Having selected a couple of red Loire's we asked about Beaujolais and this was the suggestion. Now I perceive creative labels exist to 1) promote and be eye catching plus 2) subtly inform about a wine made outside the rules 3) let you know a young artisan created the contents.<br />
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Most would recognise this label is eye catching and the connotations are probably PC given the winemaker turns out to be female.<br />
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On point 2) the label is less than helpful. The wine is actually a bona fide Appellation Beaujolais Villages made from 100% [G for] Gamey. The email address reveals the maker as [Vin de ...] France Gonzalvez [more possibilities for the overworked G]<br />
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As for the contents, it drank well - supple, fresh with lovely balance and fruit. Around €14.Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-23522482317645220282014-03-07T11:42:00.000+01:002014-03-07T11:42:18.473+01:00Far Ouest at a London Wine Bar (40 Maltby Street)<table>
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<td><a href="http://www.40maltbystreet.com/" target="_blank">40 Maltby Street</a> is a warehouse under a deep railway arch in Bermondsey and home to Gergovie Wines. Although closer to the City of London than the West End the area feels like neither. The Maltby Street half of this "cave" is a glass fronted wine bar that offers what seems their entire wine range along with a simple menu of quality food.<br />
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The wines come from lesser known areas of France (this is a Bordeaux and Burgundy free zone) along with growers from Italy, Spain and two from Slovenia. They coin them artisan wines. Only a few years ago it would probably have been Natural wines, but wisely that term seems to be being retired north of the Manche.<br />
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We were tipped off at the Roquebrun <a href="http://languedoc-wine.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/festival-des-vins-natures-4th-edition.html" target="_blank">Festival of vins natures</a> back in May by Mylène Bru, maker of <span style="color: purple;"><b>Far Ouest</b></span> and one of seven artisan Languedoc growers Gergovie Wines import. We enjoyed her wine at the time, and again here with lunch.<br />
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This time <b><span style="color: purple;">2011 Far Ouest</span></b> reminded me of <span style="color: magenta;"><b><span style="color: purple;">Domaine Ribiera's Causse Toujours</span></b></span>, perhaps not surprising given they both have good dollops of Grenache and the vineyards pretty much face each other across the Hérault valley. Both have heaps of Mediterranean flavour without being heavy.<br />
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The kitchen may be tiny but the dishes ooze care and confidence.<br />
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Shoulder of lamb with turnip cake, purple sprouting broccoli spiked with anchovy and mint is an example. As fresh tasting as it looks.<br />
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<td>Monmouth Coffee (who import artisan grown beans) have their roasting and tasting premises next door. Curiously 40 Maltby Street doesn't serve coffee - probably to allow the small team to focus on the wine.<br />
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Diners note this is informal eating from a short menu. Order from the bar and all seating is on stools with mostly shared tables and counters.<br />
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Must return and try the Slovenian wines.</td>
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Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4632917762058918179.post-1835620946898861772014-03-01T18:42:00.002+01:002014-03-01T18:42:41.407+01:00Vigne EcoleThese rows of vines by the stream opposite the Cabrières co-op are apparently educational.<br />
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All of the common Languedoc varieties are represented and clearly labelled, although they would have been more informative a month earlier blessed with richer foliage and bearing grapes.<br />
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<br />Grahamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11282937250538290233noreply@blogger.com0